Podil on the other hand is more for a charming stroll under the shade of horse chestnut trees, a cigarette and a coffee at one of her many cafes, or a quick bite of the local street food which is almost exclusively Georgian on the way to meet one’s friends. There’s a bit more New Orleans about it.

Barring the fact that many of these activities are not as picture book in the current time, since the COVID-19 restrictions have the few restaurants that are open serving only takeaway, and seen indoor and outdoor seating sacrificed on the altar of social distancing, the charm is still very authentic and accessible.

Podil seems to be the perfect place for young people to find their feet in the world, or settle down within the city center. To service such an end, bars, cafes, restaurants, boutique fashion shops, and art galleries work in tandem to create the aforementioned “Brooklyn on the Dnieper”.

A day in Podil

Andriyivski’s Descent

Perhaps the hip locals wouldn’t notice if you began your day in Podil by starting at the top of the hill known as “Andriyivski’s Descent”. One of only two or three tourist traps in the entire city, it’s worth breaking your disguise, as the hill is crowned with what a secular person might agree is the most beautiful of the Kyivan cathedrals: St. Andrew’s.

Perfectly symmetrical, colored all in turquoise, covered in golden cupolas, and mounted on an immaculately managed hill of green grass, St. Andrew’s is visible down in most parts of Podil, and when the sun’s out there’s no better religious monument on earth.

Just below the cathedral, “Artist’s Alley” is where brokers display sometimes hundreds of paintings from local artists. Much of it is kitschy, but it’s worth a pass.

Andriyivski’s Descent was home to many of Kyiv’s most famous residents, is smattered with nice places to eat and drink, and there’s even a small theater there.

Left or right?

At the bottom of the hill, one can go in three directions.

To the right is the port of Podil and Poshtova Square. After seeing those you can turn around and walk straight essentially until Podil ends. Going straight from the bottom of the hill one will find the iconic Kontrakova Square which is surrounded by beautiful architecture, and a Ferris wheel to boot.

A turn left will lead one past some of the most significant religious spots in Podil, before landing them on the main drag in town: the dual carriageway of Verkhnii Val Street and Nyzhnii Val Street. Lining these strips are many restaurants and bars, shops, clubs, karaoke spots, and open-air markets.