Central to the existence, character, and wealth of the city of Tozeur are the thousands of date palms that are grown in a massive plantation and run through a unique blend of communal practices and private investment.
Each family will own several, perhaps 9 to 12 palms, which when mature can produce around 80 to 120 kilograms of dates per season. They can keep up this production anywhere from 45 to 80 years before they are cut down, used for firewood or carpentry, and a successor is grown in their place.
Just like the deed to a house, the palm trees, and the right to replant them are passed down from generation to generation, with some anecdotal reports claiming that likely 70% of the population in the area have a claim to at least some date palms.
“We are buying from probably 100 different families/farmers,” said the owners of Best Fruits organic date exporters, from the nearby town of Dguache. “We try very hard not to use pesticides because we want them to be [organic,] but sometimes the pests are too much”.
In Tunisian society as far back as anyone can remember, it has been the role of the men to gather the dates from the palms, while the women perform “triage,” as the locals called it. Best Fruits employs 100 or so women to triage the 2,000 tonnes of dates they export every year.
In their facility, dates are frozen to protect and store them before they’re slowly brought to a normal temperature through refrigeration. Afterwards, they are dried in an oven at 80°C, and then packaged.
Dates are everywhere in Tozeur, and the expanding date plantations can be found going in all directions outside town. In the city center some of the worst quality dates are sold in stalls to tourists, and the morning market appearance is quite the scene.
Generally, a person will end up buying a single cultivar of date. The “deglett” is sold everywhere, and is moist and chewy, but smaller than the “Medjool” dates often given as presents in Europe. In Tozeur one can also find the “tranja” variety, which are less succulent and have a more complex flavor, as well as the “carnishi” which is much harder, not so sugary, and really quite rare.